The food situation in Ayia Napa has a reputation problem that it's slowly overcoming. The strip itself is lined with tourist-trap restaurants serving average food at above-average prices. But step one or two streets back and the picture changes dramatically.

The core insight: eat Cypriot food at Cypriot restaurants. The island's cuisine is genuinely excellent — mezze, grilled halloumi, souvla, fresh seafood — and the places serving it away from the tourist strip are usually half the price and twice the quality.

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Pantopoleio near the square opens at 7am and serves simple Cypriot breakfast: halloumi, eggs, village bread, fresh orange juice. €6–8 for a full breakfast. This is where you want to be after a boat trip or before an early start.

The hotels all offer breakfast buffets that are fine but expensive (€12–18 per person). If your hotel includes breakfast, use it. If not, skip it and head to a local café.

Starbucks is on the square and useful for people who want reliable Wi-Fi and a familiar order. Not the point of being in Cyprus but it's there.

Limelight Taverna on Nissi Avenue does excellent mezze for around €15–18 a head. Order the halloumi, the octopus, and the lamb keftedes. The bread is made on premises and comes with hummus that's considerably better than it has any right to be.

For something lighter, the beach clubs at Nissi Beach all serve decent food. Predictably expensive (€15–20 per main), but you're paying for the location. The grilled fish at the smaller beach bars is better than anything you'll find on the main strip.

Vassos Fish Harbour is a short walk from the main square toward the harbour and is consistently the best seafood restaurant in town. Expect €25–35 a head for a proper dinner. Book ahead in August — it fills up.

Voodoo Bar & Grill is more accessible, does solid steaks and burgers in the €15–22 range, and is close enough to the strip that you won't lose much time before the night starts. Good cocktails too.

For something cheap before a big night, the souvlaki and kebab places just off the square serve wraps and pittas for €5–7. They're open until 3am which also makes them excellent post-club food.

This sounds anticlimactic, but the Aphrodite supermarket near the square is one of the most useful stops you'll make. Fresh fruit, water (€0.50 for 1.5L vs €3–4 at a club), decent sandwiches, and a bakery section with fresh pastries in the morning. For self-catering or building a poolside spread, it's excellent value.

The dishes that Cyprus does better than anywhere:

Halloumi — order it grilled everywhere you find it. The fresh local halloumi bears no resemblance to the packaged version in UK supermarkets.

Souvla — slow-roasted lamb or pork on a large skewer, done over charcoal. The Sunday lunchtime spot for locals. Available at most traditional tavernas.

Mezze — a shared selection of 15–20 small dishes that arrives in waves over about 90 minutes. Order it for the table rather than individual mains and you'll eat better and spend less.

Loukoumades — hot doughnuts with honey and cinnamon, sold from street vendors near the square in the evenings. €3–4 for a generous portion and completely unmissable.

Budget: €8–12 per head (souvlaki, local cafés)
Mid-range: €15–25 per head (taverna mezze, beach bars)
Upmarket: €30–50 per head (Vassos, harbour restaurants)

Tipping is appreciated but not expected. 10% is generous and well-received. Rounding up the bill is common.